Puppy Care 101 - Bringing the Puppy Home

 Cute Puppies in a bin. 

You've finally received what you've been wanting for a long time - a brand new, beautiful and adorable puppy! But the question is, "How can I take care of my puppy?" If this question is somewhere in your mind, keep on reading for helpful tips on how to take care of and raise your puppy. Remember, this page is for people who have just adopted, purchased or found a new eight week old or older puppy. Pups are usually weaned at 8 weeks and it is unhealthy for them to be taken away from their mother before that age. When you get a puppy you should give the new pup as much attention as possible. If he/she has a training problem do not result into physical pain, take them to training school. When they are out, play with them a lot and that`s how you take care of your puppy.

1. Make sure that the puppy you are getting is right for you. Does its coat suit your climate? Is it small enough to live in your apartment? Do its energy levels suit the amount of exercise it will get? These are all important questions to answer to ensure the well-being of your puppy and the overall happiness of your household.

2. Puppy-proof your house. Puppies love to explore with their mouths, so to keep your puppy and your house safe, you'll need to take a few precautions. Remove breakable items from the area where you plan to keep your puppy. Keep all electrical cords raised or covered and close all low windows. You should also lock away cleaning supplies/chemicals/plants that are toxic to puppies. Get a trash can that is too tall for your puppy to get into and too heavy to be knocked over. Think about getting a folding gate to keep your puppy confined to a certain room or area.

3. Buy necessary supplies. The kitchen or bathroom is an ideal place for the bed because they generally are warm and have washable floors. Here is a list of things you'll need to get you started:

Two metal bowls. These are better than glass because they do not chip and stay cleaner. One for food and one for water. If you have other pets, be sure to give the puppy bowls to avoid conflict.

A puppy bed. Some options are: crate with a crate pillow, a snuggle nest, or a wicker basket with a lot of towels. Whatever you choose, make sure it is always soft, comfy, and dry. Also keep in hand for a blanket in case of cool weather. Make sure that your puppy has its own bed to avoid conflict with your other pets.

Toys. Your puppy will be a ball of boundless energy, so make sure you get plenty of toys. You should have chew toys and soft toys . Make sure the toys are indestructible, if not your pup can choke and die. Also remember that you should not give rawhide to pups as a toy. It's only for treats.

Puppy treats. Make sure you get a variety: Crunchy and soft. The soft will be good for training, and the crunchy will help clean teeth.

Puppy food: Do some research on dog food. Kibble, canned, home cooked, and feeding a raw diet are all options for a puppy. Make sure you buy a puppy food with no dyes or artificial flavors or preservatives in it as many dogs, like people, are allergic to these additives.

Basic grooming tools. Get a bristle brush, comb, rubber gloves, nail clippers, dog shampoo, dog conditioner, dog toothpaste, toothbrush, and towels.

A harness and tag. Get a nylon harness, and metal tag. It hurts their necks and can injure their throats. Remember when sizing the harness that puppies will grow.

4. Get the puppy comfortable in your home. It can be scary getting introduced to a new home for the first time, so make sure to give your puppy extra love and attention the first few days. Have your puppy sleep in your room at night so that they don't feel isolated or alone.

Take a blanket or dog bed to the breeder or pound from which you will pick up the puppy. Do this a few days before you pick up the puppy so that your new companion can sleep on the blanket and begin to get accustomed to your home before it even gets there.

Show your puppy around the house as soon as you bring him home. Let him walk in all the rooms and backyard.

5. Pet your puppy often. It's important to stroke your pet's body, legs, and head several times daily. This will help your puppy feel loved, as well as allow you to create a strong bond with your puppy.

6. Handle your puppy with care. Puppies, like human babies, are fragile. Gently scoop up your puppy if you need to pick it up, keeping one hand under its chest at all times.

7. Protect your puppy. Puppies are naturally curious, and even with the most attentive care they sometimes get out of the yard and get lost. Make sure your puppy wears a comfortable collar—fitted at about 5 weeks and loosened gradually to accommodate the puppy's growth—with a tag listing its name and your address and/or phone number. Many jurisdictions require licensing of dogs, but it's a good idea to get your puppy licensed even if it's not required. You can also have a tiny microchip implanted in your puppy to assist in locating it if it gets lost.

Provide a safe area for your puppy to play. A securely-fenced yard is ideal and experiment a little to find which toys he or she likes best.

Why Do Dogs Eat Poop?

One of my favorite training lists had a thread a few years back about poop-flavored dog treats and the guaranteed training success they would offer. If only they existed. And if only we could bring ourselves to touch them. Unlike humans, plenty of dogs just love feces, whether from cats, horses, or geese, or, most disgustingly to many people, their own feces and human feces. This week, everything dog behavior nerds know about coprophagy. 

Why Do Dogs Eat Poop?

The likelihood is that different dogs eat different kinds of feces for different reasons. First, some coprophagy is probably completely normal. As everybody knows, dogs evolved from wolves – probably, current thinking goes, from wolves that spooked less easily than average. Those not-so-spooky wolves got closer than others did to human bands and, later, human settlements. Finding human garbage and human excrement, the wolves chowed down. Eventually, there evolved an animal like the wolf, except that it was smaller, it hung around people, and it mostly scavenged instead of mostly hunted. Hey presto, the domestic dog, for whom it is normal to eat anything lying around that might have some nutritional value, including human poop.

Why Do Dogs Eat Other Animals' Poop?

Cat feces probably attracts dogs because cat food is higher in fat and protein than dog food, and consequently cat feces is too. As for why dogs like horse and cow manure and goose droppings, your guess is as good as mine. Dogs like plenty of things we humans don’t – when was the last time you rolled in a dead squirrel, grinning your fool head off the whole time? My best guess is that dogs just plain find feces tasty.

Eating Feces Can Be a Sign of Illness

Not all coprophagy is normal or harmless. Dogs who suffer from malabsorption syndromes, such as exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, sometimes eat stool, including their own. They may be trying recover the nutrients they can’t absorb in normal digestion.

Some horrible nutrition studies have been done on dogs but I’ll skip the details. Let’s just say that coprophagy might develop in a dog with a history of severe nutritional deficiency. “She’s eating a low-quality diet” is often thrown around as an explanation for a pet dog’s coprophagy, and maybe these studies are the ultimate source of that idea. I have to admit I’m a bit obsessive about my dogs’ food, but leery though I am of most commercial diets I sincerely doubt they’re anything like what the dogs in these studies got. All the same, if your dog eats her own and other dogs’ poop, and you’re buying the 50-pound sacks of whatever chow is cheapest at your local warehouse store, food of better quality might be worth a try.

If You Get Excited About Poop, Your Dog Might Get Excited, Too

You can often get a dog hot and bothered about a particular toy by taking it out, playing with it excitedly by yourself, then putting it away again. Same goes for shoe-nabbing. Guess what Carla learns when she streaks past with your Salvatore in his mouth and you start yelping? Poop, too, may suddenly increase in value to your dog when the result of his tentative sniff and lick is that you shriek, drag him away, and stash the experimental material in a bag. Hmm, he thinks, there must be something to that stuff. And the next time he spots some feces, he speeds up the snatch-and-grab.

Incidentally, dogs can train other dogs by this same method. Our Bradley ignored litter boxes until we adopted Charlie. Charlie adored cat poop and used to head for the box at a dead run whenever he saw a cat emerge. Macy soon noticed his passion and scored a sample for herself. Charlie has been gone for many years, but his legacy remains.

Why Do Dogs Eat Their Own Poop?

There are pretty well accepted behavioral explanations for dogs eating their own stool – not that I know of any research to back them up. Pet store puppies seem to eat their own poop more than the average dog. The reason would be the same one that makes crate training so successful: dogs avoid soiling their nests. Dogs forced to eliminate in their cages will often try to clean up. Let this happen a few times, and a habit is born. Finally, eating feces – whether or not it’s the dog’s own – may succeed in getting attention for an animal who’s lonely or bored.

Is It Bad for Dogs to Eat Poop?

Disgusting as it is to us, coprophagy seems to do most healthy, vaccinated dogs no harm,apart from occasional digestive upset and sometimes a parasite or two. I did round up a news story about a Pug who developed pancreatitis after way overdoing it at the all-you-can-eat dog poop buffet.

How to Prevent Your Dog From Eating Poop

Yeah, okay, fine, a little poop won’t hurt your dog, but it rings the bell on your Gross-O-Meter, so let’s talk about prevention. Let me say right up front that if your dog has access to the kind of feces she likes, she will sometimes get some. Homeless people defecate in public parks; if your dog is off leash, your best defense is a solid recall or rock-solid response to a cue meaning “Leave that alone.” Even so, your dog is better at finding feces than you are and may well get a few bites in before you notice and intervene. If you live in the country, chances are you can’t control the availability of horse and cow and goose and deer droppings.

Prevent Access to Poop

Control the environment! Tidy the yard diligently and prevent access to poop. When you can control the environment, do it. If your dog’s cleaning up after herself or your other dogs, tidy the yard diligently. If she’s diving for her own feces as soon as she produces it, keep her on leash till she’s done her business. Then lure her away with something super tasty before she has a chance to start. Or gently pull her if a lure doesn’t work. Try a play invitation to distract her. If she’s a junkie for fetch, toss a ball the nanosecond she begins to rise from her squat, then clean up during the chase.

Keep Litterboxes Out of Reach and Clean Them Often

If possible, keep litterboxes where the dog can’t reach them. I say “if possible” because your cat’s behavioral needs may conflict. Many cats resist using a covered box or one that’s in a small, confined space, especially if a feline housemate likes to pounce on them when they come out. Train yourself to hear those little cat feet going scritch scritch scritch, and scoop the poop as soon as kitty’s done. Even the slickest litter snacker can’t eat what isn’t there. Besides, a scrupulously clean box is nicer for your cat.

Some people muzzle their dogs to prevent coprophagy, but the commonest upshot is a filthy muzzle, which – well, yuck. If the poop-snack habit isn’t well established, it may die away on its own, provided your dog has no further opportunities to practice it. Many puppies also seem to abandon stool-eating as they mature. If your puppy isn’t one of those, prevent, prevent, prevent, and do teach that rock-solid “Leave it.”

What About Taste Deterrents?

You’ll notice I’m not touting hot sauce or commercial taste deterrents. Honestly, I don’t see the point. The commercial taste deterrents you feed your dog have no effect on any feces but hers. Plenty of dogs feel perfectly fine about a dash of hot sauce on poop. And no matter which kind of deterrent you use, and how much your dog hates it, sooner or later he will find an untreated stash. Result: poop snacking is on what’s technically called a variable intermittent reinforcement schedule, which is what trainers use when they want to create an extremely persistent, durable behavior. Just what you were looking for in stool eating.

Last word on poop eating? Almost no behavior makes it clearer that dogs are different from us. Feces disgusts us. Not so for dogs. Eating feces is dangerous to humans, mostly not to dogs. Prevent access as much as you can, teach your dog a strong “Leave it” cue, and bear in mind that dogs are dogs and sometimes we have to shrug and say “Oh well.”

Fecal Examination in Dogs

English: Dog taking a poop. 

What Is a Fecal Examination?

A fecal examination is the microscopic evaluation of feces. The test is indicated for pets with diarrhea, straining, lack of appetite or vomiting. Annual fecal examinations are recommended on all animals as part of a yearly health exam. Fecal examinations are also recommended on all puppies and kittens. 

There is no contraindication to performing this test. Negative results help determine health or may exclude the presence of disease and gastrointestinal parasites.

What Does a Fecal Examination Reveal or Demonstrate? 

Fecal examinations are primarily performed to detect microscopic whipworms, Giardia, coccidia and tapeworms. Some abnormal parasites known as spirochetes or flagellates can also be detected. 

A positive test result indicates gastrointestinal parasitic disease. Negative results from one fecal sample may be misleading. Some parasites do not shed eggs consistently so some samples may be negative even though the animal actually has a parasitic infection. Repeated fecal examinations may be necessary to detect some elusive parasites. 

How Is a Fecal Examination Done? 

In order to perform a fecal examination, a fecal sample needs to be obtained. The easiest way to do this would be to pick up a sample of feces after the pet has eliminated. Fresh samples will give the most information.

Fecal samples can also be obtained by other means. There are special fecal loops commercially available. This long narrow wand with a loop at the end is inserted into the rectum. If feces is present, a sample will be obtained in the loop. Another method of obtaining a fecal sample is for the veterinarian to use an exam glove and place a finger in the rectum. Fecal material will adhere to the glove and can be evaluated under a microscope.

After obtaining a fecal sample, the feces is placed in a tube or commercially manufactured fecal container. Special fecal flotation fluid is then added to the tube with the feces and the combination is stirred. This is then allowed to sit for about 20 minutes. The hope is that any parasitic eggs present in the feces will float to the top of the fluid.

After 20 minutes, the top layer of fluid is placed on a microscope slide and examined under a microscope. Each parasite has a characteristic appearance that can be detected by an experienced technician or veterinarian. 

The fecal examination generally takes about 30 to 40 minutes and is often performed in your veterinarian's office. Some veterinarian's choose to submit the fecal sample to a veterinary diagnostic laboratory. In these situations, tests results may take 1 to 2 days to obtain.

Is a Fecal Examination Painful? 

A fecal examination is not painful. If a fecal loop or digital exam is used to obtain the sample, discomfort may be involved.

Is Sedation or Anesthesia Needed for a Fecal Examination? 

Sedation or anesthesia is not needed for a fecal examination.

Chronic Diarrhea in Cats

Feline chronic diarrhea is defined as a change in the frequency, consistency, and volume of feces for three weeks or with recurrence. The cause of diarrhea may originate in either the large or small intestine.

Symptoms and Types:

Symptoms vary depending on the cause and origin. If diarrhea originates in the small intestine, symptoms include:

Unusual volume of feces

Weight loss

Flatulence

Abnormally frequent defecation

Black tar-like feces (melena)

Vomiting 

Symptoms due to diarrhea originating in the large intestine include:

Smaller volume of feces than usual

Abnormally frequent defecation

Mucus-like substances in feces

Tenesmus

Hematochezia

Vomiting

Causes:

Chronic diarrhea may stem from a number of causes, including:

Irritable bowel disorder

Tumors

Parasites

Exposure to toxic materials

Birth abnormalities such as a short colon

Dietary sensitivity

Risk factors include:

Dietary changes

Difficult-to-digest or high-fat diet

Diagnosis

A characteristic history based on the symptoms is first used to determine if the diarrhea is stemming from the small or large intestine. A number of additional medical tests may be used to pinpoint the exact cause.

Tests for digestive, metabolic, parasitic, dietary, and infectious causes are given. These include urine tests, fecal examination, analysis of rectal scrapings (which may reveal specific organisms or parasites), x-rays, and thyroid function tests. The thyroid regulates a number of metabolic processes, and diarrhea may stem from hyperthyroidism, a condition caused by overproduction of thyroid hormones.

If these possibilities are excluded, a test where a small, lighted device led through the mouth to the stomach (endoscopy), may be performed to search for irregularities. The procedure concentrates on the protective mucus lining of the stomach and the tube connecting the stomach to part of the small intestine (duodenum). A biopsy is taken during this procedure. A colonoscopy, in which a similar device is inserted into the rectum, may also be done in order to examine the entire colon for abnormalities.

Treatment

Treatment options vary and are based on the underlying cause. Surgery may be necessary for problems caused by intestinal obstruction, intestinal mass, or bowel disease unreachable by other procedures.

If no definitive diagnosis is possible, treatment then focuses on dietary management and, in some cases, anti-infection medication. Dehydration is a big risk due to water loss, therefore fluids need to be replenished with a balanced electrolyte solution, such as saline.

Living and Management

After treatment, the cat's fecal volume and characteristics should continue to be monitored, as well as frequency of defecation and body weight. Full recovery is usually gradual, but if the problem is not resolved, consider re-evaluating the diagnosis.

Prevention

A regular low-fat diet will contribute to the health of your cat and can help prevent chronic diarrhea. Aside from this, it is difficult to recommend preventative measures due to the variety of potential causes.

Picking A Good Pet Sitter

Does your pet approve of the pet sitter?

Picking a good pet sitter is important; you want someone who is reliable and good with animals, especially your animals. You want to be able to trust that they will do what they say and when they say they will do it. 

Perhaps you have the name of a pet sitter. The first thing you need to do is invite them over for an interview. You wouldn't hire someone at your place of business without doing a thorough interview first, would you? The same applies for hiring a pet sitter.

The interview helps you to figure out whether you and the pet sitter are compatible. If you are not comfortable with each other it may hinder open communication. Being able to communicate is very important for your pet's sake.

An interview will provide you with a clear look at how the pet sitter interacts with your pets. Do they genuinely like your pets and do your pets like them? If they ignore your dog the whole time they are talking with you, is that a good sign? Is your normally friendly dog acting reserved or aggressive around the pet sitter? 

When interviewing the pet sitter, you should cover these important areas:

1. Take a look at their experience and background. How long have they been a pet sitter and have they ever taken care of a cat/rabbit/lizard/bird like yours? Do they have references that they will happily share with you? Give the references a call and ask about the pet sitter's reliability and trustworthiness.

2. Find out if the pet sitter is insured. Some pet sitters are very part time (or are your neighbors) and don't have insurance. Whether or not to hire them is a decision you have to make. Take a look at what your own insurance may cover. I recommend you don't hire a professional pet sitter who does not have insurance.

3. Find out how they handle emergencies. Do they have time built into their schedule so they can stay longer with a sick pet? Do they know where your vet's office is and can they take your pet there in an emergency? Do they have back ups to cover for them in case of personal emergencies?

4. Find out how busy their schedule is. Pet sitting is a job; don't forget that, but do they pack their day so full of pet sits that they end up shortening their stays just to get to all of them? Or are they so busy that your scheduled visit sometime between 11:00 am and 1:30 pm becomes a 10:30 am or 2:00 pm visit? Also, are they so busy that they're heading for burnout? Pet sitters do tend to take on too much and they can get burned out and quit. 

Interviewing a pet sitter before you hire them is an important step and one you won't regret taking the time to do. The goal is to find someone you and your pets are happy with as it could be the start of a great long-term relationship for all of you.

Should I Hire a Pooper Scooper Service?

Your beloved dog is one of the best things in your life; he is always happy to see you, he plays with you to make sure you both get your exercise, and he snuggles up when you need snuggling. There's nothing you wouldn't do for your dog... except for one thing. There's this one thing you simply don't like to do and in fact, you'd rather do anything else! What's the big issue? Cleaning up your dog's poop.

If this sounds like you, consider hiring a pooper scooper service. Maybe you don't want to mess with the mess or you have physical impairments and would rather pay someone else to do it. Here are some questions you need answers to from the pet waste removal company near you:

1. Do you have to sign a long-term contract?

Good poop scooper companies will not make you sign any contract. They will start service and end service whenever you request. These are companies that rely on a good reputation to build their customer loyalty.

2. How much do they charge?

Check around, costs are different depending on where you live, how big your yard is, and how many dogs you have. It can cost anywhere from $7.50 to $12.50 (one dog) for one visit per week.

3. Do you have to pay in advance or will they bill you after the job is complete each month? 

You would probably prefer to be billed after the work is complete, unless they've come highly recommended and you trust the company.

4. Do they clean their scooping equipment?

A reputable waste company will clean their equipment with anti-microbials after each use to prevent any possible cross-contamination. You don't want uncleaned equipment used for someone else's dog also used on your grass where your kids play.

5. How do they dispose of the waste?

Do they simply toss it, unbagged, into your garbage can, or do they bag it up and take it with them to be disposed of?

6. Communication?

The pooper scooper service you choose should contact you if they find something is wrong. They should let you know if they find a foreign object in your dog's poo so that you know your dog is chewing on something they shouldn't. The company should also notify you if your dog isn't looking well or seems unusually lethargic. 

Using a pooper scooper service can be money well spent, especially if you have several big dogs. By asking these questions, you can be assured of finding a good business that will take care of your dog's business.

Cat Tumors

Surface tumors are common in cats. It is often impossible to determine whether a surface tumor is benign or malignant by appearance alone. The only conclusive way to make a diagnosis is by biopsy, a procedure in which tissue or cells are removed by your veterinarian and examined under a microscope by a veterinary pathologist.

For small tumors, it is best for your veterinarian to remove the growth and present the entire specimen to the pathologist. For tumors larger than 1 inch (25 mm) across, it may be advisable for your veterinarian to obtain a tissue sample by fine needle aspiration. In this procedure, a needle connected to a syringe is inserted into the tumor and cells are obtained by pulling back on the plunger. Alternatively, the vet can use a cutting needle to obtain a core sample. An open biopsy, in which an incision is made, is preferred for suspected sarcomas and tumors that present diagnostic problems for the pathologist

Epidermal Inclusion Cysts (Sebaceous Cysts/Keratin Cysts)

Epidermal inclusion cysts, also called "sebaceous cysts", are benign tumors that arise from glands found beneath the skin. They can occur anywhere on the body. Although less common in cats than in dogs, they are still the most common surface tumor in cats.

A sebaceous cyst may be made of a thick capsule that surrounds a lump of cheesy material containing keratin. It may grow to 1 inch (25 mm) or more. Eventually, it is likely to become infected and will have to be drained. This sometimes leads to a cure.

Treatment: Most cysts should be removed. Cysts can often be removed by electrocautery or cryotherapy. At the very least, sedation and a local anesthetic will be required, and many cats may need general anesthesia.

Warts and Papillomas

These growths are not nearly as common in cats as they are in people. They tend to occur on the skin of older cats. Some are on a stalk, while others look like a piece of chewing gum stuck to the skin.

Treatment: If they become irritated or start to bleed, they should be removed. In general, they are no threat to the health of the cat.

Lipomas

A lipoma is a growth made of mature fat cells surrounded by a fibrous capsule that sets it apart from the surrounding body fat. It can be recognized by a round, smooth appearance and soft, fatlike consistency. Lipomas grow slowly and may get to be several inches in diameter. They are not common in cats and are not painful.

Treatment: Surgical removal is indicated only for cosmetic reasons or to rule out a malignant growth.

Hematomas

A hematoma is a collection of blood beneath the skin, caused by a blow or a contusion. The area will be swollen, somewhat painful, and usually a reddish-purple color.

Treatment: Small hematomas may resolve spontaneously. Large ones may need to be opened and drained. Ear flap hematomas require special care.

Tender Knots

A small knot may be present at the site of an injection and is often present for a few days in kittens who have been given their vaccinations. It seldom requires treatment. If a firm area remains where an injection was given or develops afterward, you need to contact your veterinarian immediately. This could be a vaccine-associated sarcoma.

A painful swelling beneath the skin may be an abscess. You can usually move and compress them, and they feel warm to the touch.

Pets On Vacation

Dogs on vacation home

Since our pet is a family member, we want the pet to come along when we go on vacation. Sometimes this works wonderfully and sometimes it's better to leave her at home. Before you decide whether to take your pet with you on your vacation, please consider how you are going to travel, where you are staying, what you will be doing on your vacation and the personality of your pet.

An important consideration is to look at how you will be traveling. If you're going by car, you should think about how well your pet does on long car rides. If you're going by air, is your pet small enough to go in a carrier that you can bring on the plane with you? Lastly, if you're travelling in an RV, think about whether your pet likes to ride in the RV or if she's prone to getting motion sickness.

Another important thing to look at is where you will be staying and if pets are allowed. Most campgrounds will allow pets as long as they don't disturb the other campers. Dogs must be kept on a leash at all times, even at the campsite. If you're camping at the beach and anticipating long walks on the beach, make sure ahead of time that dogs are allowed on the beach. More and more hotels are pet-friendly, but you need to check this out in advance. Some only offer a limited number of rooms and sometimes they are "smoking" rooms. Perhaps you're going to be staying in your RV and this is fine as long as your pet is not going to be left alone in a potentially hot vehicle. There is also the vacation rental option and many of these are pet-friendly too. 

You should also think about what you will be doing on your vacation. If your pet is going to be left alone a lot while you go hiking, biking, touring, skiing, shopping, and dining, maybe it would be better to leave your pet at home with a trusted pet sitter.

Other considerations before deciding to take your pet along on your vacation include:

• Your dog or cat's temperament. Do they like change, like to try new things? Are they friendly to strangers?
• Do you have a high energy puppy or high maintenance older dog?
• Take a look at the size of your pet. Often times, too big is more of a problem than too small.
• The weather on your vacation. Too hot or too cold spells discomfort for your 4-footed friends.

It's possible for you and your pet to have a great time on vacation if you consider how you are getting there, where you are staying, and what you will be doing while on the vacation. Make special provisions for your pets and you will all have an enjoyable time.

How To Pick A Good Dog Crate

Dog in a soft crate (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are many reasons why you should get a crate for your new dog. Crates can restrict dogs who might be prone to separation anxiety or possible destructive behavior. They also become your dog's bedroom where they can go to take a nap away from the busy people world, hang out with a good bone, or sleep at night amidst the comforting smells of their own space.

When choosing a crate you should consider the size of your dog now, or if a puppy, the size they will grow in to. They should be able to circle around in it, but it shouldn't be so big that they can "go" in the corner of it and not sleep in the mess. 

Whether the crate should have wire or soft sides is up to you and your circumstances. The soft-sided crates can potentially be warmer, especially if it's located outside. The wire crates offer more air movement, but they're not as cozy. Some dogs prefer that their wire crates be covered on top or the side to create a more cave-like atmosphere. These days crates can look like wood furniture. That beautiful new end table? - A dog crate!

Crates have pans at the bottom that can be removed and this is important for ease of cleaning. Your dog's crate should be made homey with a pad that's the right fit for the crate. Toys can be rotated, but make sure they are indestructible. If your dog likes to chew up squeaky toys until he swallows the squeaker, this would not be a good toy to leave with him in his crate. The best option for water (if urination accidents are not a consideration) is to use a watering system that hooks onto the side or door of the crate. That way they won't be stepping in it or knocking it over.

Another issue to think about before buying a crate is whether it is portable or not. This is not a problem for small dogs, but if your dog is bigger, you need to see if the crate will fit in your vehicle. It should at least fold flat so you can take it along and put it back up at your destination. 

Choosing the right crate for your dog is important. If you take into account the size of your dog, the material the crate is made out of, what you should outfit it with, and whether it is portable, you will find a satisfying solution for both you and your dog.

Does Your Dog Need Grooming?

Not all dogs need haircuts, depending on the breed, but all dogs certainly need baths on a regular basis. Can you imagine how you'd feel if your hygiene needs weren't routinely taken care of? There are three ways to go about the grooming needs of your pet and one of them should work for you.

Do It Yourself

Bathing your dog is something you can do fairly easily at home. First off, you need a good dog shampoo as people shampoo could irritate the dog's skin. In addition, using a hose attachment for your tub faucet and a short leash will make the bathing easier for you.

You will also need a brush, nail clippers, and possibly a hair dryer. Lastly, you need to learn how to trim their coat and for that you need sharp scissors, clippers, and a comb. There are online videos and books that can teach you how, but if the hairdo is tricky or there are lots of mats, you should opt for a professional.

Professional Groomers

Taking your dog to a professional groomer is the right choice if your dog has lots of mats, needs a professional-looking do, or is temperamental. It's also the way to go if you don't have the experience or the time to do it yourself.

To find a good groomer, you can get recommendations from your friends, your vet, or your dog trainer. If you see a dog being walked in your neighborhood who looks well-groomed, ask the owner where they go. 

It's important to communicate with your groomer. Explain exactly what you want and tell them about your dog's temperament. Once you've become established with a groomer, they will keep a file on your dog and log the type of cut and whether anything had to be adjusted so that they know just what to do next time.

Mobile Groomers

Mobile groomers come to you in those cute little dog groomer trailers. They're equipped to do everything a groomer needs to do to make your pet look gorgeous. The major benefit of using a mobile groomer is that it is convenient for you. You call and make the appointment for a time that works with your schedule and no more taking Fido in and then returning to fetch Fido. This is especially great if your pet doesn't like to ride in the car. 

Another plus is that your dog will not be around other dogs that could upset or excite him. Your dog will be more relaxed at home.

I believe it is easier for your pet to bond with the groomer if it is the same person every time. You may not have this option at a shop where your dog is groomed by the next available groomer.

Your pet's grooming experience should be a good one for both of you. There are 3 routes you can take; do it yourself, taking your pet into a groomer, or having a mobile groomer come to your home. Take some time to think about it and choose the best option for you and your dog.