Choosing The Best Vet For Your Pet

English: A White German Shepherd dog awaiting a check-up at the Triangle Veterenary Emergency Clinic in Durham, North Carolina. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Maybe you've recently moved or maybe you have a puppy, and you don't have a veterinarian yet. Don't wait until you actually need a vet, because when you really need a vet you'll probably take the first one that comes along. It's better to plan ahead and take time now to look over the possibilities.

A good way to find a vet is to ask for recommendations from others you respect and trust. If your friend has a vet they recommend, find out what they like and don't like about the vet. It is a personal choice, and even with a strong recommendation you should still tour the facility.

It's true that any vet needs to be knowledgeable and experienced in medical matters, but they also need to be able to connect with both you and your pet. If they appear indifferent to your pet and your pet's needs or seem in a rush then you might not be happy with this vet. You need to feel comfortable communicating with the vet because you are your pet's spokesperson and you want to be heard.

The vet should be educated, experienced, and licensed. Find out how long they've been practicing and if they have any areas of specialty. It would certainly be a bonus if they specialize in diabetic cats and that's just what you need.

When looking over the facility check for cleanliness, separation of dogs and cats, how efficient the staff appears to be, how long people and pets are kept waiting in the waiting room, and the clinic's mission statement. Also ask if pets are seen on a rotational basis or if you will see the same vet each time.

What are their hours of operation and are they open on weekends? Do they have emergency services at the clinic or would they send your pet to an Animal Hospital for emergencies? How about diagnostics like xrays and labs; can they do them right there at the clinic? 

Last but not least, you should know what the fees are and if they compare favorably with what other vets charge in the area. Call around for pricing at different clinics so you will know. If your vet of choice charges more it's possible they are highly specialized. 

The fees charged should not be the biggest deciding factor when choosing a vet. Take into consideration your impression of the vet's "bedside manner", the cleanliness of the clinic, the staff's organization, and the hours of operation, to name a few. With a good tour of the facility and your questions answered, you should come away happy and confident with your choice of vets.

Boarding Your Pet - What You Should Know

Kennels

Rover may enjoy staying home when you're around but he can get pretty lonely when you're out of town on vacation. You would bring him if you could, but that's not always a good idea, especially when you're flying thousands of miles away. One solution is to board him at a kennel where he will be looked after, exercised, and kept out of trouble. Here are some things to consider when choosing the right kennel for your pet:

Clean Boarding Facility

  

This is important to your pet's health and can also say a lot about a place. Choose a place where the employees clean up after "accidents" and there isn't a lot flea-scratching going on. The facility should also require dogs to have their shots - Rabies and Bordatella. This is for your dog's protection. 

Exercise

Check out the kennel arrangement. Will your dog be in an inside/outside kennel where they're able to go outside to take care of business and enjoy the weather and smells? This may be all the older or inactive dog needs. Do the employees regularly exercise the dogs? High energy dogs need to be walked, played with, or allowed to play with other dogs. Check to see how and when they exercise the animals and if there is any extra cost involved.

Availability

Is the kennel really popular? If so, you may need to book vacations, especially during major holidays, a long time in advance. This is important to know, especially if you're used to planning your vacations at the last minute. You'll also want to explore their hours of operation. Some kennels are closed on Sundays or at night so you can't just drop off or pick up your pet whenever you want. Will your pet be okay if he ends up staying an extra day at the beginning of your trip and another day after you've gotten back? And what's that going to cost you?

Feeding

Find out what food they will feed your pet, and how often. You want the food to be a quality dog food and you want your dog fed twice a day. Some kennels will give you the option of bringing along your own food. Will they be able to administer your pet's medications, if applicable?

When you can't bring your pet with you, consider boarding them at a well-run kennel. Be sure to satisfy yourself with the cleanliness of the facility, how they will exercise and feed your pet, and the facility's hours of operation for you and your pet's peace of mind.

What Is "Normal" for a Cat?

Sleeping all day, chasing shadows all night, getting high on mysterious herbs - that may be delinquent behavior for a teenager, but it's run of the mill for a cat.

Face Rubbing

Cats rubbing their face on you is a sign of affection and appeasement. Cats have glands on their cheeks and the corners of their mouths. When they rub up against your leg or other body part, they leave some of their scent on you. According to feline etiquette, that's a compliment.

Bringing You "Gifts"

You've politely told your little predator, "No, thanks." But your cat insists on showering you with gifts of dead mice, birds, or lizards. Bringing you dead animals is normal but keep that cat inside. Prowling cats can have a devastating impact on ground-nesting birds. Give your cat toys he could hunt instead. It provides an outlet for this behavior without killing wildlife.

Drinking From Toilets

You've watched your cat's painstaking grooming ritual. Why would he go to all that trouble keeping himself clean and then drink out of the toilet? No one is sure why cats do this. Toilet water may taste fresher than stagnant water because it's changed with each flush. Don't worry about it unless you keep chemical cleaners in the tank. And if it really bothers you, keep the lid down.

Eating Plants

Eating small amounts of grass can be nutritious for cats. In larger quantities, it can have a laxative effect or cause vomiting. If your cat is drawn to eating greenery, take inventory of your houseplants. Many species are toxic to felines, such as aloe and philodendron, and Easter lilies, which are deadly.

Eating Wool

In rare cases, cats are compelled to eat the inedible. For unknown reasons, wool is particularly appealing. Some suck on it. Some ingest it. They eat large holes out of sweaters. This behavior is classified as compulsive and is most common in indoor-only cats. Talk to your vet about behavior modification. It may help to provide tasty alternatives, like catnip, grass, lettuce, or rawhide.

Sleeping All Day

It may seem lazy, but sleeping or lounging around the whole day is a survival trait if you're a cat. As they evolved in the wild, felines developed a pattern for conserving energy. They hunt for a short period and spend the rest of the day sleeping. In house cats, the pattern is similar. A kitten will eat and play in brief bursts, but spend most of her time at rest.

Motor Mouth

Just like people, some cats are more "talkative" than others. They may meow and whine throughout the day. Asian breeds, particularly Siamese cats, are prone to vocalizing. As long as your cat does not appear anxious or in pain, being a chatterbox is no cause for alarm. However, a quiet cat that suddenly begins vocalizing should be examined. The change in behavior could signal a medical condition, such as hyperthyroidism.

Kneading

Your new slacks may suffer a few snags, but your cat means well. When Meowsy Kitty jumps on your lap to knead your legs, it means she's feeling relaxed, comfortable and secure. Kneading is learned very early in a cat's life. It's something most kittens do while nursing.

Finger Licking

If your cat makes a habit of licking your fingers, there are several possible reasons. The first is that your cat simply likes the taste of your sweat or hand lotion. In some cases, licking can be a comforting behavior; it may be linked to nursing. If your cat licks you excessively and shows other signs of anxiety, check with your vet.

Getting High

If a pinch of catnip sends Fluffy into a state of bliss, you might wonder if your innocent furball is getting high. The answer is yes. Chemicals in catnip produce a response similar to intoxication. There's a genetic basis for it, so some cats show no reaction. Others show that very extreme attraction. In some cats, this naughty herb may even cause hallucinations. Catnip is not toxic to cats. However, ingestion of large amounts can lead to vomiting or diarrhea. Catnip should not be given to pregnant cats.

Cataract in Cats

A cataract is defined as any opacity on the lens that interferes with transmission of light to the retina. A spot on the lens that blocks out light, regardless of size, technically is a cataract.

Cataracts of all types are rare in cats. Most cataracts are caused by eye injuries and infections. Inherited cataracts can be accompanied by other eye birth defects, such as microphthalmia (an abnormally small eye) or persistent pupillary membrane (which is a tissue tag across the iris or from the iris to the cornea). Cataracts can develop in diabetic cats, but this is not common.

As a cat gets older, there is normal aging of the eye. New fibers, continually forming on the lens surface throughout the cat's life, push toward the center. The lens also loses water as it ages. These changes lead to the formation of a bluish haze seen on the lens behind the cornea in older cats. Usually this does not interfere with vision and does not need to be treated. This condition, called nuclear sclerosis, should be distinguished from a cataract.

Treatment: A cataract is significant only when it impairs vision. Blindness can be corrected by removing the lens (cataract extraction) and replacing it with an artificial one. There are three general techniques for cataract extraction: extracapsular lens extraction (ECLE), intracapsular lens extraction (ICLE), and phacofragmentation (also called phacoemulsification or “phaco” for short). ECLE is rarely done, and only if the lens is too hard for phacofragmentation. ICLE is mainly done for lenses that have slipped from their normal location. Phacofragmentation is the preferred technique of most veterinary ophthalmologists for cataract removal. This technique uses ultrasonic waves to liquefy the lens, to suck out lens fragments, and to irrigate the eye. An artificial lens can then be put in the eye to restore semi-normal vision. If the lens is not replaced, there is a loss of visual acuity because the lens is not present to focus light on the retina.

Cataract surgery tends to be reserved for cats with cataracts in both eyes who are having problems getting around. Before this surgery is done, the cat needs to have a thorough eye exam, including an electroretinogram (ERG) to verify that the retina and the rest of the eye are normal, so that removing the damaged lens will actually restore vision. If the retina is damaged, it makes no sense to put the cat through this surgery.

Conjunctivitis (Pinkeye) in Cats

Conjunctivitis is an inflammation of the membrane covering the back of the eyelids and surface of the eyeball up to the cornea. It is one of the most common eye problems in cats. Conjunctivitis in cats almost always has an underlying infectious cause. The most common cause is the herpesvirus (FHV-1), and the second most common is chlamydophila. 

Signs:

• red eye
• discharge 
• pawing at the eye to relieve itching
• The conjunctival tissues may be red and swollen. 

Untreated conjunctivitis may progress to vision-threatening problems. Conjunctivitis is not painful-although it is itchy. If the eye is red, irritated, and painful to touch, consider the possibility of keratitis, uveitis, or glaucoma. Delay in treating these conditions could result in loss of vision.

Serous Conjunctivitis

This is a mild condition in which the membrane looks pink and somewhat swollen. The discharge is clear and watery and is caused by physical irritants such as wind, cold weather, dust, or various allergens. This condition must be distinguished from a tearing problem.

Serous conjunctivitis may be the first sign of a feline viral respiratory disease or a chlamydophila infection. Eye worms are a rare cause of conjunctivitis.

Treatment: Mild, irritating forms of conjunctivitis can be treated at home. The eye should be cleansed with a dilute solution of boric acid for ophthalmic use, artificial tears, or a sterile ophthalmic irrigating solution that can be purchased over the counter and used as directed for people. You should see definite improvement within 24 hours. If not, bring your cat to the veterinarian.

Purulent Conjunctivitis

Purulent conjunctivitis begins as serous conjunctivitis that becomes purulent. Thick secretions crust the eyelids. The eye discharge contains mucus or pus. This suggests secondary bacterial infection.

When the discharge involves both eyes simultaneously, suspect a virus. This could be herpesvirus or calicivirus. When it involves one eye at first and progresses to the other eye several days later, suspect chlamydophila or mycoplasma. These microorganisms can be detected under a microscope by your veterinarian, in scrapings taken from the conjunctival membrane. Ulcers on the cornea are diagnostic for herpesvirus conjunctivitis.

Conjunctivitis due to fungal infection is rare and requires special laboratory aid for diagnosis.

Treatment: Purulent conjunctivitis requires eye irrigations and sometimes warm soaks to loosen crusted eyelids. Antibiotics are applied to the eye surface several times a day. They should be continued for seven days beyond apparent cure. An ointment containing a combination of neomycin, bacitracin, and polymyxin (such as Neosporin ophthalmic ointment) often works well.

If the condition is caused by chlamydophila or mycoplasma, eyedrops containing tetracycline or chloramphenicol are the antibiotics of choice. Chlamydophila conjunctivitis can result from cats shedding organisms in their stool or urine after the infection appears to be cleared. This carrier state can be treated by your veterinarian with a three-week course of doxycycline or a week of azithromycin.

Deep-seated infections are difficult to clear up. In such cases, you should suspect involvement of the tear drainage system. Repeated cleansing of the eye, correction of any underlying problem, and specific topical and oral antibiotics tailored to cultures and sensitivities form the primary approach to this problem.

Antiviral eye medications are available for the treatment of viral conjunctivitis. They must be prescribed by a veterinarian. Cats with herpesvirus often have chronic recurrent conjunctivitis and may periodically be a source of infection for other cats. Research at Colorado State University is using a new antiviral drug, cidofovir, to treat cats with herpes conjunctivitis. This medication needs to be given twice a day and is not as irritating to the cat as other antiviral medications.

Follicular Conjunctivitis

This is a condition in which the small mucous glands (also called follicles) on the underside of the nictitating membrane form a rough, cobblestone surface that irritates the eye and produces a mucoid discharge. Various pollens, allergens, and infective agents are implicated as causes. After the initiating factor has been removed, these follicles may remain enlarged. The roughened surface of the conjunctiva then acts as a persistent irritant to the eye.

Treatment: A steroid-based eye ointment can be used to decrease the size of the follicles and smooth the surface. If steroids are not effective, your veterinarian can mechanically or chemically cauterize the follicles. Steroids should not be used unless an infectious cause has been ruled out.

Cat Worms

There are three usual culprits for cat worms - tapeworms, roundworms and hookworms. It can be very hard for you to tell just by symptoms which type of worms your cat has. The best way is to take a stool sample to the vet to be tested. This will give you an exact answer and help with treatment.

You can take a stool sample to the vet in a ziploc bag, or some vets provide stool sample kits to their clients. In either case, it must be as new a sample as your cat decides to give you (if it has cat litter on it, that is normal!).

In a multi-cat household it can be almost impossible to tell whose stool is whose. Separating the cat you think has cat worms in a different room with food, water and a litter box until your cat goes to the bathroom is the easiest way.

The most common type of cat worms are Tapeworms.

Tapeworms

Cats can get tapeworms by eating prey (usually rodents) or uncooked meat, or from infected fleas. The adult tapeworm attaches to the cat's intestinal wall and absorbs nutrients. Eggs produced by the tapeworm pass out in the cat's stool.

The most common signs of tapeworm infection are worm segments or eggs that can be seen on the cat's rear end or in the stool. Tapeworm segments are white or pinkish white, flat and rectangularly shaped. They can move in a stretching and shrinking motion. Dried eggs can look like a grain of rice or a sesame seed.

In a more severe infection, worms can be seen in the cat's vomit.

Other symptoms can be more general - weight gain or loss, loss of appetite or voracious appetite, bony appearance or big distended abdomen, dull coat, hair loss, and excessive licking around the anal area.

Treatment is relatively easy - your vet can prescribe you a dewormer, usually in tablet form. Since many tapeworm problems are caused by fleas, a good flea treatment program is also helpful to prevent re-infection.

Roundworms

There are several kinds of roundworms, but the most common kind are called Ascarids. They are white, cylindrical and pointed at both ends. Cats can become infected with ascarids by eating prey (rodents or cockroaches). Ascarids are also very common in kittens because they can be passed through the mother's milk.

The symptoms of roundworms in adult cats are very similar to tapeworms. In kittens vomiting, diarrhea, dull coats, a pot belly on a thin body, and weakness are symptoms of roundworm. It is a good idea to get your kitten checked for roundworm by your vet, as it can cause serious illness in kittens.

Your vet will prescribe a dewormer, and it may have to be repeated several times before the roundworms are gone. Ascarid eggs are very resistant, so during the treatment litter should be scooped daily and litter pans washed with hot water and detergent regularly. Throw out the litter and disinfect the boxes before the end of the treatment.

Hookworms

Hookworms are less common cat worms, but are found in hot humid areas. They also infect the cat through prey, partially rotten meat, or through their mother's milk. Larvae can also penetrate the skin, especially around the toes, and migrate to the small intestine. Migration through the skin can be seen by scratching, redness, scabs and bumps on the skin. 

Hookworms can cause severe anemia, diarrhea, weight loss, a rash between the toes, and dark red or black stool. Hookworm is a very serious parasite infection - it must be treated by a veterinarian. Your cat may require a short (day or two) stay at the vet to be treated for hookworms. The used cat litter needs to be thrown out, and all bedding, litter pans, food and water bowls should be washed in hot water.

If you live in a hookworm area, have your cat tested every few months. It is best to keep your cat indoors and wash litter pans thoroughly.

If you suspect cat worms, have the vet analyze a stool sample to see which type of worms you are dealing with. Always use vet-prescribed dewormer -over the counter dewormer is toxic and does not work on all worms.The dosage needs to be correct for your cat's weight and size. The over the counter wormer is at best ineffective and toxic at worst.

If your cat vomits too soon after you give the dewormer, you may need another dose from the vet.

In a multi-cat household you will need to treat all cats (and probably dogs - you know what dogs like to do with kitty litter...) if they share food, water and litter.

Ways to Save Money on Pet Care

Veterinarian 

Pets not only require our time and attention, they require our money, too. Food, vaccinations, and veterinary medical care all add up. In today's tough economy, people are rethinking their personal expenses and cutting the budget where they can. Here are some tips to keep your pet in good health while saving money.

1. How to raise funds for pet and vet care bills

For emergencies and other unplanned veterinary costs, the expenses can be staggering. In some cases, it becomes a life-and-death situation just because the funds are short, not a medical shortcoming. Other times, and animal may "find" us; they may be homeless, injured or otherwise healthy but incurring unplanned-for-expenses. Here are some ways to raise funds to help.

2. Online Coupons 

Many online retailers offer discounts and money-saving coupon on pet supplies and food. Find out how to start saving here.

3. Pet insurance or wellness plans 

Shopping for health insurance, whether for humans or pets, is confusing. So many options. So many exclusions. We can't predict the future -- what plan will best suit our needs and grow with us? Asking questions is the first step to ruling out plans that won't work and finding plans that will.

4. CareCredit

CareCredit works like a credit card, but is exclusive for veterinary care (and other human health care services). Not every provider offers CareCredit or all of the available payment plans through CareCredt. Talk to your veterinarian to see if CareCredit is an option for your pet's care.

5. Vaccination clinics or other specials offered at your vet's office

Low-cost vaccination clinics are offered at some practices (found commonly in large pet supply retailers) or animal feed supply stores. The thoroughness of the exam varies at vaccination clinics. The clinics are usually advertised as "free examination with vaccination" and animals who are sick or not feeling up to par should not be vaccinated under any circumstances.

Veterinary practices may also offer other specials on pet foods, dental cleanings, spays and neuters, and so on. Speak to your veterinarian to see if they run any regular or seasonal specials on services.

6. Split the cost of "large ticket items" with a friend

Food and pet treats are always less expensive when purchased in large quantities. This is a great way to save money, but sometimes a large quantity is just too much -- for the pocketbook and for the pet. Foods stay fresher in smaller quantities and smaller quantities allow for better variety.

Splitting the cost of large quantity food purchases with a friend helps save money and offers a choice of fresher foods for your pet.

7. Sooner, rather than later, veterinary examinationsThis is a tough one for people to accept, but I am adding it in anyway. If your pet is sick or injured, getting a diagnosis and treatment plan started as soon as possible will save money in the long run. Of course, each case is different, but getting things fixed before more things "break" definitely saves money.

8. Save for your own pet emergency fundThis is often easier said than done, especially in tight financial times, but having some money put away for the unexpected veterinary expense can make a huge difference in the outcome. These funds can also be applied to payment plans or other options, such as CareCredit mentioned above.

9. Trade labor for veterinary servicesThis tip will not work for all situations, but it may be worth it to speak to your veterinarian about trading your labor (in the office or special skills) for veterinary services for your pet(s) or emergency situation.

10. Volunteer at a local shelterVolunteering at a local shelter will often put you in touch with animal care personnel, and perhaps veterinary technicians and veterinarians as well.

11. Share your favorite cost-cutting tips

These are tough economic times for people and pets, and sadly, record numbers of animals are being abandoned and surrendered at shelters. Some people are even having to make difficult decisions regarding euthanasia when faced with pet health problems and high vet bills (also known as "economic euthanasia").

Please share your money-saving pet and vet care tips. You can help others who may be in a stressful financial situation with their pets.

How to Give Your Cat a Pill

Questions to Ask Vets About Cat Pills

When giving your cat medication in pill form it's important to communicate with your veterinarian about that pill. Can it be crushed? Can it be cut? Can it be given with food? Sometimes pills have a coating on them that will be destroyed during the crushing or the cutting creating possible problems with the medication.

Giving a Cat Pills With Food

If it's okay to give with food or water, those are often tools we use to make the medication process easier. It's important to have your medication and all your supplies ready. Food or treats will be a good distraction for your cat. It also makes the experience positive for your cat. Butter or margarine will allow that pill to slide down easier. Another tool you can use is peanut butter and that will help the cat swallow and help the pill act more like a food morsel that they can't spit out. It's difficult to hide pills in food for cats. They're a little more sensitive eaters than dogs and can usually pick around the pill. Peanut butter is hard to pick around.

Pill Guns for Cat Medicine

If you don't use butter or peanut butter, you may want to follow with a syringe of water. Again, to encourage swallowing and to make sure that pill goes all the way down and you don't have any problems from not being swallowed all the way. 

We have two methods to give pills. With your hand or using something called a pill gun. A pill gun is a firm plunger type tool with a soft rubber tip. There's a cut at the top of the tip that you insert your pill or capsule to and then you administer it. It prevents you from getting bit. Some cats will tolerate this, some won't. Your veterinarian will be able to supply a pill gun or most pet supply stores will have them as well.

Administer the Pill to the Cat

Just coat the pill in butter. Cats in general do not like to be restrained. If you can use your body and a towel with minimal impact, the less they know and the quicker you act the quicker it'll be. If I'm giving a pill by myself, I use my body behind the cat to prevent the cat from going backwards and I use my left hand and arm as a brace on the side of the body from going sideways. If you have a helper, your helper can be that person to prevent the backward and sideward movement and you can use both hands to help with head control and administration of the pill. 

I'm right handed, so I like to use the pill in my right hand, I have an assistant holding my cat, and I'm going to use my left hand to control the head. And then I take my right hand and shoot for the trough of the V of the tongue. Put the pill back as far as I can, hold the mouth closed and we look for the tongue, showing that he has swallowed.

Give the Cat Positive Reinforcement

After he has swallowed, I still wait a few minutes and again try and make this a positive experience. We let him down and we have our treat ready. If your cat doesn't accept the treat right where you've been working that's fairly common, you might want to put your food bowl with the treat in his usual eating spot and they usually go right for it. Your veterinarian usually will show how to give the pill in the office. And at home, you may need help, you may need a towel, or, you may be able to do it alone. The important thing is to keep it positive and short. And if you're having difficulty please call your veterinarian for other alternatives to that particular medication. 

Taking Care of Your Kitten

A six-week old kitten. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Kitten Care: Bringing Home Baby

Can a little fur in your life lower blood pressure, boost immunity, reduce anxiety, even diminish depression? It turns out that people with pets get more than just love, purpose, and fulfillment from their fuzzy companions. Having pets can help make a person healthier, too. Ready to bring a kitten home? Here's what you need to know, from adoption to feeding to fun.

Tips for Adopting a Kitten

There are millions of homeless pets, so it's a great idea to adopt your feline friend from an animal shelter or a rescue group. Although pet stores and breeders can also be reputable sources, anyone can call themselves a breeder and decide to sell cats. Adopt from a shelter or a rescue group and you get two feel-good bonuses: You save money -- and a life.

One Cat or Two?

As you cuddle a couple kittens at a shelter, the question is bound to occur: One cat or two? Many people in multi-cat households enthuse that two compatible cats offer each other company, exercise, and stimulation. Questions to ask yourself include: Do I have enough space? Time? Money? If the answer is yes, prepare for double the commitment -- and double the rewards!

Preparing for Kitty's Arrival

Before bringing home a baby, you buy diapers, bottles, a car seat and much more. Fortunately, it's a little easier bringing home your kitten! A few must-haves include: A litter box, cat carrier, food and water bowls (and something to put in them), a collar and tags, and several toys to entertain your fuzzy tot. Take time to cat-proof your house before kitty arrives: put away household chemicals and pick up anything she might accidentally swallow.

Will Kitty Be Indoors or Outdoors?

Cars, disease, predators, people, dogs, other cats: These are just a few of the dangers lurking outside for your new kitten. Many veterinarians recommend keeping cats indoors, maintaining that on average, indoor-only cats lead longer, healthier lives. If you choose to keep your kitten indoors, remember to create an enriched environment for your little friend with window perches, lots of companionship, toys, even outdoor enclosures.

Do You Really Need Kitten Food?

Until they're 1 year old, kittens need up to three times the calories as adult cats. So look for food formulated especially for kittens and feed your kitten the amount recommended by the food manufacturer. Talk to your vet about using canned food, dry kibbles, or a mixture of both, so you can make the best choice for your kitten. Just be sure to put the food somewhere the dog can't get to, as kitty food can upset a dog's stomach.

Water, Water Everywhere

Always have lots of cool, clean water available for your kitten every day -- place several water bowls throughout the house. Encourage her to drink by keeping the water bowls well-scrubbed. If you notice your kitten isn't drinking much from her bowl, try offering water in a flatter dish, one that doesn't surround her small face quite so much. Some cats prefer moving water and may do better with a kitty water fountain rather than a standard bowl.

The Low-Down on Litter Boxes

Cats have an instinct to eliminate in soil or sand, usually learning this behavior from mom by 3-4 weeks of age -- so your kitten will likely be used to a litter box upon arrival. Locate it in a quiet spot and show her where it is. Kitty litter choices include regular and clumping clay litter, litter made from wood chips, grains like wheat, newspapers. Although one test showed cats favored fine-grained clumping litter over other options, the choice is really up to you -- and your kitten. And, some cat boxes are too high-sided for kittens to get in and out easily, so you may need to start with a low-sided box until your little one is taller.

The Benefits of a Cat Bed

Cats sleep as many as 16 hours a day, kittens even more. As much as you love cuddling with kitty, she'll probably enjoy a spot all her own. You don't need a bodacious bed from the pet store. She'll happily curl up on a perch attached to a window ledge, a cat tree, a fuzzy pad on a chair, or in her very own snuggly cat bed. If you have a dog, it's important to provide your kitten a safe and private place to sleep undisturbed.

The Importance of Play

Playtime with your kitten isn't all fun and games. It also has a purpose. By gently playing with your kitten daily, you teach her not only the people skills she needs to be a happy household companion, you also help her keep fit, develop physical coordination, and find an outlet for instinctive behaviors like chasing and pouncing. If kitty likes to use her teeth or claws, give her something to bite on or cling to as you play. Don't use your hand as a toy! This bad habit can result in injury to children or unsuspecting guests.

Keeping Kitty Safe

Cats often interact with the world through their mouth, and as cute as your kitten looks playing, not everything in your house is a suitable toy. The American Humane Society suggests keeping string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands, plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, dental floss, and anything else that could be eaten away by your cat. Also, tuck away cleaning supplies, pills, and drugs of all kind, as well as antifreeze and motor oil.

Teaching Your Kitten the Rules

Your kitten is new to the world and your house -- so she'll need to learn the ropes, one step at a time. Want to deter some behaviors? Provide acceptable outlets. For example, to keep kitty off the curtains, give her a sisal-covered pole to clamber up. Don't want kitty blunting claws on the couch? Provide scratching posts around the house. Tip: Pretend to sharpen your claws on the scratching post, as this shows her it's OK to do this. Ideal scratch posts are well secured, as instability is off-putting to many cats. Your job as teacher is to be patient, consistent, kind -- and creative!

A Word About Declawing

Declawing kittens and cats is controversial; consider the pros and cons carefully. Because a cat's claws are adhered to their bones, this surgery involves removal of the last joint of each "finger". Those who argue against declawing feel it is inhumane and amounts to mutilation. Those on the other side argue it makes a cat a better pet, and possibly less likely to end up in a shelter because of destructive behavior. If you choose to declaw your cat after other methods to prevent scratching have failed, surgery should be performed before 6 months of age. Declawed cats should always be kept indoors because they have trouble defending themselves.

Quick Tips to Manage Scratching

Because declawing is a last-resort solution, try these tips for managing kitty's claws. Nail clippers: They're easier to use than you think, and usually you need only clip the front claws; care should be taken to avoid cutting the central "quick" – the blood supply to the growing nail. This is easily identified as the pink central part of the nail. Gently press on the foot pads to extend the nail before clipping. Ask your vet to show you how if you are unsure. Scratching posts help cats help themselves; look for sisal, cardboard, carpet, and wood posts. Claw caps (also called nail caps) are tiny vinyl sleeves that fit over your cat's claws, painlessly preventing them from scratching in unwanted places.

Food Harmful to Your Kitten

Although drinks like alcohol, coffee, and tea may be tasty to you, they're dangerous for your cat. To help keep kitty safe, avoid onions and garlic, as these foods cause anemia in cats. If you find your kitten likes these or other family nibbles, offer them their own goodies, like a pot of catnip or oat grass. Think your cat has eaten something dangerous? Call your vet at once, or call the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

Plants Harmful to Your Kitten

Several house or outdoor plants can also pose a poison risk to your kitten, including chrysanthemum, azalea, tulip bulbs, and oleander. Lillies are particularly poisonous to cats, and even small amounts can cause severe illness. Not sure if a particular plant is kitty-safe? Talk to your vet. And if you think she's eaten something potentially poisonous, call your vet right away, or call the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

8 Weeks: Time to Spay or Neuter

With an estimated 6 million dogs and cats entering shelters every year, there are too many pets and not enough loving families for all of them. That's why groups like the Humane Society and the American Veterinary Medical Association recommend spaying or neutering your cat, which can be done as early as eight weeks. Some groups can even help with the cost of surgery. You can help reduce pet overpopulation -- one litter at a time.

Fleas: Fighting Back

All it takes is one flea hitching a ride indoors on your pants hem and a flea infestation can begin. If you notice your kitten is losing hair, has irritated skin, is chewing and licking often, or is scratching a lot, your little one may have fleas. Ask your vet which flea control he recommends for kittens (some products also prevent heart worms), and then treat all the pets in the house. Some flea treatments commonly used in dogs can be very toxic to cats, so always read the package carefully.

Protecting Against Intestinal Worms

Kittens are prone to a variety of intestinal parasites. Many kittens are infested with roundworms through their mother's milk. Roundworms may cause diarrhea, vomiting, and pneumonia. Human infection by this parasite is possible. A fecal test performed by your veterinarian can detect hookworm eggs, and inexpensive medications are available to eliminate the worms. Tapeworms, transmitted by ingesting a flea, are not eliminated by the standard kitten deworming medications and are not detected on a routine fecal examination. If the classic "rice grains" tapeworms are seen in the stool or on kitty's behind, then a specific medication from your vet is required to eliminate them.

Don't Forget Vaccinations

Just like you, your kitten's vaccinations will help keep her free of contagious, and sometimes deadly, diseases. Common illnesses that can be prevented by vaccinations include rabies, feline distemper, feline leukemia, and upper respiratory infections. Because some vaccines last longer than others, and because disease risk can vary based on your cat's lifestyle and location, talk to your vet about a customized vaccination program.

How to Tell When Kitty Is Sick

To protect themselves from predators, cats are good at hiding illness. Yet there are signs to look for that tell you your kitten may be sick, including refusing food or water; panting; sleeping much more than usual; coughing; sneezing; vomiting; or losing weight. Even if these symptoms aren't present, if you think your little buddy isn't up to snuff, play it safe: Talk to your veterinarian. Never give your cat something from your own medicine cabinet; some of the over-the-counter products we use routinely can be deadly to cats.

Hints to Help You Pick a Vet

A good way to find a great veterinarian is to ask people you trust for recommendations; then, after narrowing your choices, visit each clinic. Does the clinic look (and smell) clean and well-managed? Do the vets listen to you? Answer your questions clearly? Do they seem to like cats? How about the support staff -- are they calm and caring? Like choosing your own doctor, the fit needs to fit. Don't be shy about changing clinics if necessary.

They Grow Up So Fast!

Like all babies, kittens seem to grow up right before your eyes, and before you know it they're braving the world on their own. So be sure to take lots of pictures and enjoy every moment as your rough-and-tumble little kitten changes and grows into your contented cat companion.

Neutering and Spaying in Cats and Dogs

Just neutered 

First, some basic reproductive terminology:

Spayed = a female cat or dog who has had both ovaries and uterus surgically removed, and is not capable of producing offspring.

Neutered = a male cat or dog who has had both testicles surgically removed, and is not capable of producing offspring. Also known as castration. Some refer to "neutered" as a male or female dog that has been surgically altered to render them sterile (testicles removed or ovaries removed, making them not capable of producing offspring).

Related terms: desexed, fixed, altered, castrated

Intact = not spayed or neutered, the animal has reproductive organs capable of producing offspring.

Queen = intact female cat

Tom = intact male cat

Bitch = intact female dog

Dog = intact male dog

For the purpose of this article, intact male cats and dogs will be referred to as the "pet" or "patient".

Is neutering a major surgery?

No, in the sense that neutering does not enter the abdominal or other body cavities. A general anesthetic is required, however, and there are risks, as with any surgery and anesthesia procedure. Dogs and cats generally recover a bit quicker from neutering than spaying since it is not as invasive as a spay. (For more on the actual surgery, see below.)

Myth #1 - I've heard that my pet won't be as good of a protector of my home and family if neutered (dogs).

Dogs have a natural instinct to protect their home and loved ones. They are also much more inclined to stay home and happy when neutered. It is true that unneutered dogs are often more aggressive and territorial (urine marking, fighting), but these traits should not be confused with loyalty and protection of their home and family.

Providing a loving environment for your pet, proper health care, and proper training will be the most influential benefit to maintaining a happy pet that fits into your family.

Myth #2 - I am worried that my pet will become fat and lazy.

Proper nutrition and exercise are what will keep your pet at a healthy weight and level of fitness, not failing to neuter him.

I want to neuter my pet, but I think I'll wait until it is more convenient for me (i.e. when time, money, other activities, etc. permit).

Just because you own a male pet doesn't mean that you shouldn't be a responsible pet owner as far as pet pregnancy "accidents" - creating more unwanted puppies or kittens. Even with the best fencing, kennel, and training - it is not a guarantee that your dog won't escape or...that a female in heat won't "break in" to meet up with your pet. Cats, of course, are difficult to contain if outside, and they are quite quick at escaping the house when they want to be!

Pet overpopulation is a HUGE problem in the United States and many countries around the world -- don't contribute to the problem of unwanted puppies and kittens simply due to lack time, interest, funding, etc. Speak with your veterinarian if you have financial concerns.

Non-neutered males have an increased risk of cancer (testicular, perianal, and possibly prostate) over their lifetime.

Why does my vet want to do pre-surgery blood work on my pet?

Many veterinarians offer pre-anesthesia screening to their patients, and may have you sign a waiver if you decline these blood tests. Why is this so important? It provides a way to assess kidney and liver function prior to undergoing anesthesia among other things. The liver and kidneys are the primary routes that the anesthetics are broken down and removed from the body. If they aren't working well, then anesthesia may be more of a risk. There are many anesthetic agents available, and your veterinarian may also use the blood screening information to determine the best anesthetic protocol for your pet.

What happens during the surgery?

Your pet will be sedated and anesthetized so he won't feel any pain or be aware of what is happening. His breathing and heart rate will be closely monitored by the veterinary staff.

(Note: there is more than one way to neuter an animal - descriptions here are the most common techniques used.)

Dog: The surgeon makes a small incision just in front (towards the pet's head) of the scrotum (sac that contains the testicles). Each testicle is removed separately, and the blood supply and vas deferens (spermatic cord) are ligated (tied off). The subcutaneous layers are sutured together with an absorbable thread, then the skin is closed with either skin staples, absorbable (hidden) sutures, or sutures that will be visible and need to be removed 10-14 days after surgery.

Cat: Many veterinarians prefer to incise (cut) the scrotum itself in the cat to remove the testicles. Each testicle is removed and ligated as described above, and the two incisions are allowed to heal as an open wound - no sutures. The incisions are very small, and are usually barely noticeable shortly after the surgery.

My vet said that my pet is cryptorchid. What is that, and will the surgery be different from a "normal" neuter?

Cryptorchid is a medical term meaning literally "hidden testes" (crypt = hidden, orchid refers to the testicle, or testes). This is considered a birth defect - where the testicle doesn't "migrate" out of the body cavity and into the scrotum like normal during fetal development. Some pets can be "late bloomers" and a testicle not present at birth can descend later, but by 4-6 months of age, if it isn't there, it won't likely be. It is a heritable trait, so any pets in a breeding program with this condition should be neutered to not pass on this trait.

Where is the testicle?

That depends! It can be deep inside the abdomen, similar to where the ovary would be found - by the kidney. It may be anywhere from the kidney area to the bladder. It could also be in the inguinal canal, the passageway from the abdomen to the scrotum.

Testicles in the abdomen are not likely to be palpated, but the vet has a good chance of palpating a testicle in the inguinal canal. I say "not likely" to be palpated, because most of the time, the hidden testicle is much smaller than normal, even when in the inguinal canal. This is not always the case -- as I remember a geriatric Irish Setter that had been neutered as a pup. Apparently, only the testicle in the scrotum had been removed at the time of neutering, several years before. This dog was presented for difficulty defecating and urinating, with a large abdominal mass. A very large (12" diameter) testicle was taking over the abdomen! Thankfully, surgery went well, and he could live out his senior years comfortably.

Moral of the story: cryptorchid dogs should NOT be bred, and must be neutered - since the risk of testicular cancer in an abdominally cryptorchid dog is high.

How soon will he be "back to normal"?

Most people are surprised at how quickly their pets recover from surgery (certainly much sooner than their human counterparts!) Most pets are up and alert shortly after surgery, and for neuter patients, most are back to their "normal" self by the next day. It is very importantto restrict activity in those pets who are very active and to control excessive licking of the surgical site. It is also important to note that if your pet has already reached puberty (age 5 to 6 months or older), behaviors influenced by hormones will take a month or two to subside. Behaviors include, but are not limited to: fighting, roaming, urine marking and so on. Some of these behaviors are learned in addition to being hormonally influenced, so do not expect complete cessation of undesirable behaviors in all cases post-surgery. Neutering prior to puberty will lessen the occurrence of these behaviors from ever showing up.

Lost our cat Milky on a Vehicular Accident

Our cat Milky

We recently lost our cat Milky, on the 28th of September. We saw her lying on the side of the road on the 27th, very pale almost lifeless. We were very very careful in moving her as she might have fractures and suffered Spinal Cord Injury, she couldn't move any limbs. There was a tinge of blood on her neck too. 

Although in incidents like this, the pet must be taken to the vet immediately, we did otherwise since we're a family of doctors and nurses and we normally don't take our pets to vet clinic, we just treat them ourselves. Besides, with Milky's condition I'm afraid there is nothing the Vet can do about it. They may have to put her down anyway. We just provided medicine to ease the pain she may be feeling and made her more comfortable in the last moments of her life. 

Click here for more information on Paralysis and Weakness in Cats.